Nonetheless, it’s nice to get some validation from mainstream gourmet authority Zagat, which recently put out a list of what it considers to be the top six coffee trends. They asked baristas what’s hot, from brewing methods to roast profiles to sourcing beans.

What do you think? Do you agree? Would you add or subtract anything on the list?

When purchasing an espresso machine, look for temperature capabilities around 195-204 degrees Fahrenheit, and pressure capabilities close to 135 psi. For great tasting espresso, use 100% Arabica coffees, roasted for espresso.

Espresso requires finely ground coffee that is brewed at the proper temperature and pressure to extract only the finest qualities of the coffee bean.

According to the Specialty Coffee Association of America, a single shot of espresso uses 7g to 9g of finely ground coffee extracted with water under 135psi (9 bars) of pressure at a temperature of 198º to 202ºF (92º to 95ºC) over a period of 20 to 30 seconds, counted from the time the brew button is activated, to a volume of .75 oz. to 1 oz. (22ml to 30ml).

Pulling an Espresso Shot

Begin with a preheated cup

If espresso is brewed into a cold cup or shot glass the rapid drop in temperature will alter the espresso, resulting in a bitter tasting shot. Whenever possible, pull shots into the vessel they will be served in, otherwise use a shot glass.

Rinse, Clean and Dry Portafilter Basket

There are two reasons to rinse clean and dry the portafilter basket. First, we do not want to re-extract old coffee grounds. Second, we do not want to wet the freshly ground coffee. Water is more likely to travel where water already is. If the coffee gets wet, water will find the path of least resistance and over-extract the already wet areas of the puck. This is called channeling.

Grind

Grind only as much coffee as you need to fill the portafilter basket. Familiarize yourself with the time it takes to grind the coffee you need. Every grinder is a little different; try to keep waste to a minimum.

Dose

Gently pull the dosing lever until the basket is just a little more than full.

Level

The purpose of leveling is to evenly distribute the ground coffee in the portafilter. There are many ways to achieve this. Some things to keep in mind:

·      Ensure coffee is evenly distributed against the edge of the basket before sweeping off excess grounds.

·      Avoid pressing down or pre-packing.

·      Be aware of the contours of your fingers. Try to create an even, horizontal surface, avoiding pits or mounds.

·      One way to limit waste is to level the excess grounds into the dosing chamber of the grinder. Avoid letting the spouts of the portafilter drip water into the dosing chamber.

Tamp

·      Place the portafilter on a packing mat or use a computer mouse pad. The angle of the portafilter handle is designed so that the basket will be horizontal if the spouts and handle are resting evenly on the mat.

·      Set the tamper in the basket to ensure a horizontal tamp. Place the tamper on the horizontally leveled grounds and tamp lightly. Gently tap the front of the portafilter with the handle of the tamper to knock loose any grounds resting on the inside edge of the basket.

·      Now tamp by evenly distributing 30 to 40 pounds of pressure, holding the tamper as if you were shaking someone’s hand. Position your thumb and forefinger on the base of the tamper for balance and stability. To avoid strain, keep your elbow at a right angle and your wrist aligned vertically with your forearm. Do not tamp with your palm as this makes it difficult to maintain stability and will strain your wrist. If you do not know what 30 to 40 pounds of pressure feels like, practice tamping on a bathroom scale.

Flush Group Head

Before you insert the portafilter into the group head, run water through the group head for 3 to 5 seconds. This helps clean the dispersion screen and allows for greater temperature consistency by pushing out water near the head of the group that has cooled.

Clean Portafilter Spouts

Sometimes coffee grounds can stick to the spouts of the portafilter and make their way into the cup. This makes for a gritty, unpleasant mouth feel. To prevent this, keep your packing mat clean and rinse the portafilter spouts while you preheat and flush the group head.

Insert Portafilter into Group Head and Brew

Be careful not to jostle the portafilter when you insert it into the group head. Press the brew switch immediately. The ground coffee will scorch if it is allowed to sit in the hot group head.

Observe the Pour

Each shot of espresso should be .75 oz. to 1 oz., including crema. It is extracted over a period of 20-30 seconds, counted from the time the brew switch is activated. It should begin pouring dark brown and slowly brighten, turning blond in the last few seconds. Watch out for light “candy cane” stripes in the flow. These stripes are a sign of inconsistent extraction. Once brewed, the surface of the espresso should be reddish brown with dark brown flecks. These flecks are small fragments of the cell walls of the coffee bean that have made it through the filter and are responsible for much of the pleasant flavors in espresso.

Serve Shots Immediately

The espresso will cool and the crema will fade, so serve or use your shots immediately.

Experiencing Espresso

Sight: Look at the surface of the espresso (aka the crema or foam). It should be rich and unbroken and its color should be reddish brown with dark brown flecks.

Smell: As you lift the demitasse of freshly brewed espresso, inhale deeply. The aroma will instantly awaken your palate. Does it smell sweet, chocolaty, sour, sharp, and/or fruity? Your nose will give you a clue to what is in store for your tongue. Coffee is an organoleptic experience, requiring smell and taste to fully experience what’s in the cup. 

Feel: As you drink the espresso, start evaluating it by determining the basics. Decide whether the liquid is lying pleasantly on your tongue. Press the liquid against the roof of your mouth. Is the feeling thin or thick? This is how we determine body. Now you can begin to evaluate taste and aftertaste.

Taste: The human tongue and mouth are comprised of taste buds dedicated to detecting particular flavors. The tip of your tongue is responsible for detecting sweet and sometimes salt, the sides sour, the top and front sweet, and the back tastes bitter flavors. It is important to be able to identify and not confuse the flavors you taste. Determining which taste buds are stimulated when the drink covers the tongue can help you isolate the tastes that you experience.

A Good Espresso

A properly brewed shot of espresso should be rich and heavy in body. The coffee should have an initial impression of intensity. Depending upon your personal sensitivity, you may detect concentrated bittersweet cocoa or bright acidity. Do you taste the coffee heavier on the tip and the top of your tongue? This is where the espresso should perform best. Those are your sweet sensors. So while the coffee may not taste as if sugar has been added, if it lies heavily on these parts of the tongue, you are sensing a level of sweetness. 

Does the coffee stimulate the sides of your tongue? Do you feel it hit the back bitter sensor; does that intensity dominate the overall flavor? If the sides or the back of your tongue are “more excited” than the tip or the top, you’ll need to evaluate it. Does that taste add or detract from the overall impression of the coffee?

Aftertaste is one of the most important attributes of a good shot of espresso. The tiny bubbles of the crema act as the flavors’ time-release capsules. You may now detect cocoa, caramel, fruit, or floral notes on your tongue after you’ve swallowed. Use your sense of touch again. Does the shot leave an oily film on your tongue? Is the texture rough and drying or smooth and long lasting?  Which taste buds are stimulated even after the coffee is gone?

Keeping your espresso machine and grinder in shape:

Remove portafilter, knock out puck, rinse and reinsert portafilter.

When time permits, keep your portafilter clean. Always keep the portafilter in the group head when it is not in use. This will keep it hot when the machine is turned on. If it is allowed to cool, the portafilter will drop the temperature of the brew water when espresso is brewed, causing the espresso to be thin and under-extracted. 

Adjusting the Grind

The grinder needs frequent adjustment to properly do its job. The grind size needs to be right in order to achieve a proper extraction. Temperature, humidity, pressure, and roast date are examples of factors that can affect the way the coffee behaves once ground.

Coffee that is ground too fine will pack tightly together, not allowing water to pass through it easily. This causes over-extraction, where the water is in contact with the coffee for more than the optimum time, resulting in a bitter or burnt taste. Grind that is too coarse allows water to pass through too fast resulting in a brew that is weak and thin in body because the coffee was not exposed to the water long enough.

When you have developed a consistent dosing, leveling and tamping technique and you notice the espresso is not pouring properly, it is time to adjust the grind. Make small adjustments, one or two notches at a time. As a general rule, each notch on the adjustment collar represents about 2 to 4 seconds of brew time. After moving the adjustment collar, be sure to grind for at least 3 seconds and discard the coffee. Otherwise, coffee at the old grind setting will be in the grinding chamber and chute, and the next set of shots will not reflect the adjusted grind.

Steaming Milk

Steamed milk is an ideal medium for presenting espresso to the palette. It tones down bitterness and acidity without masking the pleasant flavors espresso has to offer. Steaming milk is just as delicate a process as preparing espresso. Care must be taken by the barista to create a drink that is the right temperature and texture. Experiencing an espresso beverage prepared with steamed milk is as much about feel as it is about taste.

Use cold milk and a clean, cold pitcher.

When you use cold milk and a clean, cold pitcher it takes a little more time to heat the milk. This means you will have more time to roll the infused air, breaking up the air bubbles, and creating smooth, velvety foam. When pouring your milk, only use as much as you need for the drink. Avoid milk waste. Keep in mind that heating the milk will cause it to expand. Foam, espresso and flavoring (if any) will add volume as well. Never re-steam milk. Sugars in the milk begin to break down when milk is heated, and re-steamed milk will taste flat or bland.

Purge steam wand

Turn on the steam wand and leave it on for a few seconds. Purging the steam wand before you begin steaming will flush out water condensation built up inside the steam wand.

Lower the steam wand tip just below the surface of the milk.

The steam wand should be placed at about a 45-degree angle, and submerged about a half inch below the surface of the milk, just right (or left) of center. This will help create a whirlpool. A whirlpool is the most effective way to roll the infused air and create micro-fine bubbles.

Turn on the steam wand.

Open the steam valve and introduce steam into the milk. Open the valve enough to ensure full steam pressure.

Create a whirlpool and gently introduce air into the milk.

With the tip of the wand just below the surface of the milk and off to the right, angle the pitcher so as to create a gentle whirlpool. Lower the pitcher so that the holes at the tip of the wand are just barely exposed at the surface of the milk. Introduce a small amount of air into the milk. This is often called “stretching.” The longer you stretch the more foam you will have. The amount of foam needed depends on the type of drink you’re preparing. The stretching phase needs to happen in the first few seconds of steaming so that you will have time to break up the bubbles of infused air.

Dive the steam wand further below the surface of the milk.

A latte requires the milk volume to be expanded by approximately 20% with the added foam. A cappuccino requires the milk to be expanded longer—the added foam should almost double the volume in the pitcher. Once the desired amount foam is achieved, dive the steam wand into the milk to stop introducing air with the steam. Hold pitcher steady so that the milk swirls around inside the pitcher creating a whirlpool. Continue to texture the milk until the desired temperature is reached.

Turn off steam wand when the milk reaches the desired temperature.

Turn the steam valve clockwise to shut off the steam wand. The milk should be heated to 145ºF to 155ºF unless otherwise requested. Any hotter and the sugars in the milk will begin to break down, giving it a flat or burnt taste.

Wipe steam wand completely clean of any milk residue.

Use steam wand towel to wipe and thoroughly clean the steam wand. Any milk left on the wand will dry and harden in less than a minute. This is unsightly and unsanitary.

Purge steam wand again.

Purge the steam wand for at least 2 seconds to flush out any milk left in the wand. Milk left in the wand can work its way up into the steam valve assembly as the steam wand cools. This will clog it and cause it to steam more slowly, much like a clogged sink drains slowly. Also, it’s disgusting.

Pour milk into drink immediately.

As soon as you are finished steaming, the milk and foam will begin to separate. The foam will get dry and airy and will not have a velvety smooth mouthfeel. Swirling the pitcher will help keep the milk and foam emulsified, but this will not work for very long.

The Drinks:

Espresso

·      Preheat demitasse cup by filling with hot water using the Americano wand.

·      Pull shots into demitasse cup, enjoy.

Cappuccino

·      Serve in a 6 oz. cappuccino cup.

·      Pour 4 oz. of milk into a small milk steaming pitcher.

·      The tip of the steam wand should be just below the surface of the milk to start.

·      A clip-on type thermometer works well to monitor heat. Once it’s near 140 degrees, discontinue steaming.

·      While pressing down on milk pitcher, swirl the milk to blend froth into steamed milk until a wet sheen appears.

·      Pour milk though center of espresso shots careful to preserve crema as long as possible.

·      The heavier steamed milk will pull the blended lighter froth out of the pitcher during the later part of the pour, creating the cap.

·      Macchiato simply means “marked with milk” so top espresso with desired portions of steamed milk and/or froth.

·      Follow steps for making a cappuccino, however, introduce air for about 5 seconds.

·      Increase the volume of the milk by at least 50% by introducing controlled amounts of air along with the steam.

·      Pull espresso shots directly into cappuccino cup.

·      A traditional cappuccino is equal parts espresso, steamed milk and froth.

Macchiato

·      Preheat a demitasse cup.

·      Pour 4 oz. of milk into a small milk steaming pitcher.

·      Increase the volume of the milk by at least one-third by adding foam, set aside.

·      Pull espresso into demitasse cup.

·      Pour milk and foam over espresso and serve.

Americano

·      Fill desired coffee cup with hot water using the Americano wand.

·      Leave room for cream unless otherwise specified.

·      If possible, pull shots directly into cup, otherwise use shot glasses. Serve.

Latte

·      Preheat a cappuccino cup.

·      Pour 4 oz. of milk into a small steaming pitcher.

·      Pull shots into cup.

·      Pour milk into shots; take care to preserve crema.

Maintenance of your home espresso machine:

DAILY:

·      Back-flush each group with espresso machine cleaner

·      Soak portafilter, baskets, dispersion screens, and dispersion screws in cleaning solution

·      Soak steam wands in cleaning solution, remove and clean tip

·      Clean drip tray with soap and a non-abrasive cleaning utensil

·      Empty grinder hoppers, wipe with a wet towel and dry

·      Wipe down espresso machine

·      Empty the hopper and wipe down with a wet towel and dry

·      Use the grinder brush to clear the dosing chamber of coffee grounds

WEEKLY:

·      Run grinder cleaner such as Grindz through grinder.

·      Be sure to grind and discard a few grams of coffee to remove any grinder cleaner residue.

Tracy Allen is scheduled to give two lectures:

- Coffee Quality for Profit

- Unique Value Proposition for Roasters

Details on Coffee Fest New York here. 

January 30 to February 4, 2012: Coffee Quality Control Course in Italy

Find out more here.  

December 1-15, 2011 Grand Opening of Ocean Grounds In Beijing

Back in China for the first half of December for the grand opening of Ocean Grounds Organic Coffee and Tea. They’re on an exciting path. Read more about them here.

October 26-27 2011: Tracy Allen at Nuova Simonelli Education Event

Keynote speech at Nuova Simonelli’s semi-annual education event.

Read what happened here.

August 2011: Q Grader and SCAA Cupper Certification

At Cafe Imports in Minnesota. Class limited to 10 students.

February 20, 2011: Coffee Fest Chicago

Structured Selling for Wholesale Roasters

February 18, 2011: Coffee Fest Chicago 

Unique Value Propositions for Roasters

It is estimated that 1.4 billion cups of coffee are consumed around the world on an average day. Add to that the growing economy of China, a traditional tea market with an expanding global appetite for coffee, and the world is about to become highly caffeinated.

This is the hope of two coffee entrepreneurs from Southern California, who believe that the Chinese will take to drinking coffee just like their American and European counterparts. In early December they will find out, when their new venture, Ocean Grounds Organic Coffee and Tea, opens on the third floor of the UTOWN lifestyle mall in Beijing’s busy downtown Chaoyang District.

“I had done business in China for most of my life, but for the past few years living in San Diego, I started to really appreciate and understand specialty coffee and decided it was time to bring it to China. The market here is untapped and underdeveloped,” says cofounder and CEO Jim Lee, a San Diego native who is half Chinese. “For sure, Starbucks sees the same opportunity, but it is not our goal to be the biggest. … We want to prepare and present coffee as if it were a traditional Chinese tea ceremony. Our goal is to celebrate the farm-to-cup experience and educate our customers so they can connect taste to the regionality of coffee. If they can appreciate an African coffee and compare it to a Central American, then we’ve succeeded.”

Lee and cofounder John Lewis knew that to compete and succeed in the hyper-competitive coffee business, they needed to support their high-end market position with their own passion for coffee. First, they hired Tracy Allen (CEO of Brewed Behavior, celebrated coffee-industry professional, supertaster, cupper, and instructor) to ensure that they could source and roast some of the most sought-after micro-lots of organic coffee from all over the world.

“Coffee chains from the U.S., New Zealand and the U.K. have begun to open minds about coffee in China,” says Allen. “I am proud to say this Brewed Behavior client has committed to being a clearly identifiable coffee importer, roaster, wholesaler, educator and ambassador. This progressive approach is hot in the Asian market. Taking care of the Earth and coffee farmers while satisfying the voracious appetites of the masses will be the challenge.”

After securing the best coffees for its operation, Ocean Grounds then purchased a brand-new 25-kilo Probat coffee roaster to anchor its retail business and supply custom blends and single-origin coffees to its growing wholesale business. A Discovery Bar anchors the main retail area where customers will interact with staff to discuss and enjoy handmade coffees.

“No drip coffee will be served at this location; every drink is made to order,” Jim Lee is quick to point out. “And we will consult with our wholesale clients to make sure standards are met at their locations.”

Ocean Grounds will also develop a retail offering, featuring products that are organic, natural and unprocessed—some of them made in California. They will also include tea from local Chinese company Tea Journeys, which shares the same handcrafted and hand-picked philosophy as its coffee counterparts.

Ocean Grounds’ soft opening will be December 6, in conjunction with the opening of UTOWN mall. Further plans to stir the market with the Ocean Grounds brand and product offerings includes its grand opening on December 12.

“Jim and I decided to not spend our marketing funds on traditional advertising,” says John Lewis, a 20-year marketing executive who has worked for culture brands like Nike and Burton Snowboards. “With social media like Weibo so pervasive in China, we know that if we spend our money on sourcing and roasting the best product, our customers will eventually seek us out and tell their friends. It also doesn’t hurt that the expat population in Beijing has been tortured with average coffee in this market for years. Word of mouth is still king.”

“My one wish for our Chinese customers is that they learn to enjoy coffee in the morning like the rest of the world,” adds Lewis. “But, the more time I spend in China and understand the culture, I realize that we just need to educate and let the coffee culture here evolve.”

Find out more at oceangroundscoffee.com.

Press contacts: Chinese speakers can contact Jim at jim@oceangroundscoffee.com or 1 37 1616 4812. English speakers can contact John at john@oceangroundscoffee.com or 1 34 8072 0456.

Download the press release for the roasting and cupping classes here.

Space is limited. I hope to see some new faces, and some that I saw at the Coffee Quality Revolution in October.

Dates: January 30 – February 4. Download the full itinerary here.

Venue: Nuova Simonelli’s SCAA-certified Q grading lab. We’ve held Q Grading demos here before. And now, a roaster has been installed to add to the fun.

To Register:

1. Create your account in the CQI Database.

2. Enroll in the Q Grader Exam/SCAA Advanced Cupping Course.

3. Email Tracy Allen for invoice and payment instructions.

4. Once payment is confirmed, you’ll receive further instructions via email.

They keynote and other presentations were held in the sanctuary of Fiastra Maceratas, and old monastery that’s been converted to a hotel—a cool place to have a meeting, like being in the church of coffee for a couple of days.

A major highlight of the event was a cupping demonstration that compared a lighter-roast Cup of Excellence Guatemala with a darker traditional Italian blend. Deep, dark espresso blends are cherished by Italians not just for history’s sake, but for their robustness and ability to cut through food and finish a meal. But with tradition accounted for, the cupping explored the possibility for space in Italy for lighter roasts. It was nice to see the roasters open to the idea of both flavor profiles having a place in Italy’s coffee culture. Perhaps in the morning, the Italian roasters thought, a lighter roast could be served in a cappuccino or macchiato. Not to replace their traditional coffees, but to grab hold of the third wave and differentiate themselves as specialty.

Italy, like everywhere else, needs to stay in touch with global trends and satisfy its big-city markets like Rome and Milan, where there are plenty of international transplants and tourists seeking third-wave specialty coffee. If these roasters lead the way, this could provide great growth for specialty in Italy.

I’m here to meet with clients and friends … and to drink a lot of coffee, naturally. HOST cannot be beat for its presentation of European coffee culture as it evolves.

Next week I’ll be in Ancona to give the keynote address at Nuova Simonelli’s Coffee Quality Revolution, a two-day event that will be chock full of amazing coffee education and the chance to meet barista champions, coffee scientists and other interesting folks in a fairly intimate setting. I’ll let you know how it goes.